高昌国服饰研究

The Research on the Costume of the Gaochang Kingdom

作者: 专业:中国史 导师:乔健 年度:2018 学位:硕士  院校: 兰州大学

关键词

高昌国 服饰 胡汉
Keywords

Gaochang Kingdom, costume, Hu and Han

        高昌国(今吐鲁番)地处东西交通大动脉上,多民族在此交往融合,创造了独具地域特色的高昌国文化。20世纪初,出土了大量涉及高昌国服饰的文书、壁画、绢画、人物俑及织物残片等,为高昌国服饰研究提供了可靠依据。高昌国服饰的种类齐全,款式多样,服装主要有袄、衫、裙、袴褶等,足衣主要是靴、履,男子前期以辫发为主,后期主要戴冠帽,而女子头顶盘髻,在发髻上用假髻、簪、钗作为装饰品。高昌国服饰受胡、汉两种风格影响,其整体特征是“丈夫从胡法,女子略同华夏”,这种现象背后有深刻的历史原因。首先,受到政治局势和政令推广的影响,北方游牧民族和汉人相继在此确立自己的势力范围,强行干涉高昌国人的服饰选择;其次,丝绸之路上的粟特人、波斯人长期在高昌国从事贸易活动,他们的民族文化不可避免地渗入高昌地区;最后,人们在实际生产生活的需要决定了高昌国服饰的种类和样式。
    Gaochang Kingdom(in Turpan now)is located in the east-west traffic artery,where many ethnic groups merge and merge,creating a unique culture of Gaochang Kingdom.The various ethnic groups merged in this interaction and created unique geographical features.At the beginning of the 20 th century,a large number of documents,murals,enamel paintings,tomb figures,and fabric pieces involving Gaochang Kingdom’s costumes were unearthed,which provided a reliable basis for the unveiling of GaoChang Kingdom’s clothing research.Gao Chang Kingdom has a wide range of apparels and styles.In terms of clothing,there are mainly quilted jacket,shirts,skirts,and pleats.Footwear is mainly boots and shoes.The men mainly use hair extensions in the early stages,and they mainly wear crown caps in the later period,while the women comb a knot.Encourage the use of chignon,hairpin as decorations on knot.Gao Chang Kingdom clothing is influenced by Hu and Han styles.Its overall feature is ‘Male accord the Hu customs,wives generally dress like Han people’,and there are profound historical reasons behind this phenomenon: First,affected by the political situation and the promotion of political orders,the northern nomadic people and the Han people have established their influence here.Scope,forcibly intervene in people’s choice of clothing in Gaochang Kingdom;Second,trade contacts and cultural infiltration,the Sogdian and Persians on the Silk Road have long been engaged in trade activities in Gaochang Kingdom,and their national culture inevitably infiltrated.In the end,people’s needs in actual production and life determine the types and styles of Gaochang Kingdom costumes.
        

高昌国服饰研究

摘要3-4
Abstract4
绪论7-14
    一、研究背景7
    二、研究综述7-12
    三、研究方法及思路12-13
    四、研究意义13
    五、凡例13-14
第一章 丝绸之路上的高昌国14-24
    第一节 历史沿革14-15
    第二节 地理交通15-16
    第三节 社会经济16-21
    第四节 民族概况21-24
第二章 高昌国服饰的种类与款式24-45
    第一节 首服、面衣24-31
        一、首服24-28
        二、面衣28-31
    第二节 上衣、下裳、带具31-36
        一、上衣31-34
        二、下裳34-36
        三、带具36
    第三节 足衣、手衣36-39
        一、足衣36-39
        二、手衣39
    第四节 佩饰39-42
    第五节 服饰原料42-45
        一、麻织物42
        二、丝织物42-43
        三、棉织物43-45
第三章 高昌国服饰“丈夫从胡法”考45-56
    第一节 史书相关记载45-46
    第二节 胡汉影响下的高昌国服饰46-51
        一、男子从胡法46-48
        二、女子似华夏48-49
        三、胡汉融合的服饰49-51
    第三节 男女服饰差异的原因51-56
        一、政治统治,政令推广51-53
        二、商业贸易,文化波及53-54
        三、生产生活,实际抉择54-56
结语56-58
附录58-66
参考文献66-69
在学期间的研究成果69-70
致谢70
        
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